I talk a big game about my Italian heritage, but while my dad — and my last name — bear all of the evidence of a Sicilian background, the most recent immigrant in my family was actually German. While my grandfather was born in the US, his parents had come over from Germany only a few years earlier.
And they weren’t the only ones to settle in New York. There used to be several German neighborhoods in Manhattan — Alphabet City and Yorkville, primarily –, and while true German areas have grown sparser in the city, there are still a few places where you can go to enjoy a very specific breed of German hospitality.
First up, there’s Lederhosen, a West Village bar and beer garden with a casual, homey feel. It’s the kind of place you could wander into at noon and leave at ten at night without knowing where the time went.
There are a few great beers on tap, including the Spatenbrau up top.
To the east, you have Zum Schneider, a Bavarian beer hall opened by a first-generation immigrant to the US (that’s him on the right). All of the servers here speak German, and you really get the feeling that this is where you hang out if you’re a homesick Bavarian.
Not only are the beers delicious, but there’s oompa music playing and a good selection of traditional food.
Schnitzel and spaetzle? Yes, please.
A little closer to home, at least for me, is the Heidelberg.
The inside is dark and cozy, perfect for a winter meal, but they also have a beer garden as well as tables on the sidewalk overlooking… the Second Avenue subway construction.
They have all the usual German beers on tap and a good selection of food including some bar snacks.
Potato pancakes and applesauce.
German cucumber salad (the cream-based kind, which isn’t the kind we make at home, but it’s still tasty.)
And my favorite, wurst on a pretzel bun. Which brings me to a super random yet seasonally appropriate anecdote: when we were growing up, my brother went through a phase where all he would eat was deli turkey. On Thanksgiving, my mom was thrilled because finally he’d be eating the same thing as everyone else, but he mentioned that he wouldn’t spit at a weisswurst, and so my grandfather went over to Schaller and Weber (not too far from the Heidelberg) to fulfill his Thanksgiving wish.
I’ve also tried Loreley, a trendier beer garden not far from the Bowery, but I’d love to get some more suggestions, if you have them. What are your favorite places to drink German beer in NYC?
Cheers!
Christmas–make a list and I will beer/food crawl with you both!!!
I’m dieting until then…………