I’ve already detailed some of my favorite eating spots in the North Marais, one of my favorite neighborhoods in Paris, but the South Marais should not be ignored.
While it’s hard to identify just one historic center in Paris, if pressed, the Marais is probably the one I would point to. Home to cobbled medieval streets and ornate mansions and squares installed by the aristocracy, the Marais is rich in history… and in delicious food.
Rue des Rosiers
The Marais has historically been the Jewish quarter of Paris since the 13th century. Today, it is still home to Jewish bakeries, butcher shops, and restaurants.
- L’As du Fallafel (32-34 Rue des Rosiers) is perhaps the best-known of the falafel shops on rue des Rosiers (and is famously the favorite of Lenny Kravitz). Not just the original, l’As is also the only kosher falafel joint on the block (and it’s still my favorite.
- Mi-Va-Mi (23 Rue des Rosiers) is a close second, as I detailed in my Paris falafel showdown.
- Just a few steps off rue des Rosiers, Miznon (22 Rue des Ecouffes) is also known for its falafel, though I prefer to make a meal of all of the side dishes, including a whole roasted cauliflower.
Classic Restaurants
The Marais is home to more than a handful of classic French restaurants, perfect for those seeking out dishes like escargots or beef bourguignon.
- When someone asks me for a great bistro, I almost invariably send them to Café des Musées (49 Rue de Turenne). This former neighborhood favorite suffered a bit in reputation when it changed hands a few years ago, but the new owners have given the menu a makeover, including adding my favorite beef bourguignon in all of Paris.
- Chez Janou (2 Rue Roger Verlomme) may not be typically Parisian, but it is typical of the south. This Provençal restaurant is always busy, but country classics like wild boar stew and ratatouille make it worth the wait.
- On the southern edge of the Marais overlooking the Seine sits Trumilou (84 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville), an Auvergnat bistro exuding Old World charm. This is the place to go for bistro classics like steak au poivre (with truly excellent house-made French fries) or the house specialty, duck with prune sauce.
- Savoyard specialties include a whole host of ways to serve melted cheese, and Pain Vin Fromages (3 Rue Geoffroy l’Angevin)excels at all of them. A variety of different fondues (including the Normande with camembert, pont l’éveque, and livarot cheeses melted with calvados apple brandy) and raclettes, it’s a great place to enjoy typical après-ski food without any physical exertion whatsoever.
- I cannot speak personally for the excellence of Breizh Café (109 rue Vieille du Temple) given my debilitating buckwheat allergy, but several trustworthy sources have promised me that it’s the place to go for typical Breton crêpes and galettes in Paris.
Pastry and Coffee
While not all coffee shops have great pastries, and not all pastry shops even serve coffee (much less great coffee), I’ve decided to combine these two in the historic Marais, as either is a great spot for a quick stop while sightseeing.
- I first ventured to Carette because it ostensibly has the best millefeuille in Paris. I have yet to encounter one that I prefer. It’s also one of the only places that you can actually sit down to enjoy a delicious pastry, and for that, it will always be on my list.
- Yellow Toucan (20 Rue des Tournelles), just steps from Bastille, serves up great American-style coffee in an ultra-cozy setting.
- Café Suédois (11 Rue Payenne) is a Swedish café with one of the most beautiful (and expansive) outdoor areas in Paris, thanks to its location in a small private courtyard.
- Pierre Hermé (18 rue Sainte-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie) has long been my favorite spot for macarons. I love his sweet-and-savory seasonal combos like olive oil and clementine or pineapple and wasabi.
- La Caféothèque (52, rue de l’Hôtel de Ville) was one of Paris’ first artisanal roasters and coffeeshops, and it’s still one of my faves.
Nightlife
The Marais has long been the heart of Paris’ gay nightlife, but I’m sadly not nearly cool enough to share my thoughts on clubs. (I can direct you here if that’s what you’re after!) My nightlife preferences veer more towards bars with lots of chairs/stools. So… here are my spots to visit in the South Marais.
- Le Perchoir Marais (33 Rue de la Verrerie) is the southern outpost of one of my favorite bars in the 11th. Located on top of department store the BHV, it’s currently (as of winter 2019) decked out in full-on Mary Poppins style.
- La Belle Hortense (31 Rue Vieille du Temple) is a wine bar with books. I don’t think I need to say any more.
Did I miss any of your favorite South Marais spots? Let me know in the comments!