The Left Bank of Paris used to be where folks flocked in Paris: popularized by illustrious former residents from Hemingway to Sartre to Hugo (and other less literary faces too), southern Paris was seen as the bohemian side, striking a stark contrast with the aristocratic north.
But things have been changing for years. Today, northern Paris (specifically the upper Marais, 9th, 10th, and 11th arrondissements) are far more popular for young, hip Parisians – and for good food. The Left Bank has a relative dearth of delicious places to eat, but I’m starting to notice a change, and Hugo & Co is one place I’ve long been incredibly excited to try.
This spot not terribly far from Notre Dame Cathedral is the little brother of the recently-Michelin-starred Tomy & Co, a fellow Left Bank resident near the Eiffel Tower.
At Hugo & Co, French technique and international ingredients unite with – in my opinion – success across the board. The now-famous bao buns with slow-cooked pork, daikon radish, and cucumber were stellar (and even better with the house-made hot sauce).
Crispy, tender bites of fried chicken are served with an herby sauce vierge and a not-too-spicy harissa mayonnaise.
Boudin noir gets dressed up on a crostini with crisp slices of fresh apple and spring asparagus.
Asparagus were also invited to the table with this breaded-and-fried veal cutlet served with housemade curry sauce and raisins. I usually expect veal to be ultra-tender, and while that wasn’t the case here, it was packed with flavor.
While there were no losers on our table, there was one winner: confit pork belly with octopus, served with a housemade barbecue sauce. It was meltingly tender and just this side of sweet (and perfectly matched with a sesame-scented cole slaw).
The ever-changing seasonal menu, excellent list of natural wines, and location off the beaten track has skyrocketed this bistro up my list of top spots to recommend – and of course, I’ll be back myself.
Hugo & Co – 48 Rue Monge, 75005