In the heart of the Marais, a century ago a Catalan engineer who developed a wine tank with a removable lid to stop oxidation invested his fortune in an import business and, finally, in a wine shop. Decades later, it would become a favorite of Jim Morrison, and today, it’s a restaurant exuding Old World charm.
It is with absolutely zero sideeye that I say that Vins des Pyrénées is the sort of place first-timers to Paris would adore. With an appropriately consequential wine list including quite a few options from the Languedoc evoked in the restaurant’s name, this bistro not only boasts all of the design codes one would expect of a restaurant with such deep-seated roots – rich dark wood with notes of copper – but it also is home to friendly, Anglophone service and a menu of traditional classics with just the right contemporary touches to make it feel imaginative and fresh.
A recent visit saw duck confit croquettes paired with an herbaceous raita for the ideal rich, savory bite. These boasted the perfect texture and the portion was consequential without being overly copious.
In the category of slightly less traditional offerings, the gilt-head bream ceviche in a rich coconut milk sauce was scattered with seasonal berries and pickled onion and cabbage. Rounds of pickled red cabbage gelée and a smattering of coriander lent welcome freshness to the dish.
The standout, however, was undoubtedly the organic deviled eggs, which have recently reappeared on nearly every bistro menu (something I like to delude myself into thinking I had some role in). This one veers off the well-trod just enough, with a paprika-spiked mayonnaise and a pickled egg yolk welcoming the generous toppings of green onion, pickles, and fried onion for crunch. My only criticism was that the latter seemed a bit stale – maybe leftover from lunch service? The current humidity in Paris can’t have helped… – but flavor-wise, these were spot on.
Unfortunately, Vins des Pyrénées suffers the unfortunate truism that appetizers are often more enticing and exciting than mains.
The salade niçoise with seared ahi tuna boasted a nice blend of crudités, but the vinaigrette proved far too sweet, and the tuna itself was a bit chewy.
The duck two ways, meanwhile, was generous to a fault, with two meaty slabs of magret that ultimately lacked flavor. (That gravy, however, did its job well.)
The potatoes atop the duck parmentier were dry and mealy – ultimately quite disappointing.
The duck beneath, however, proved quite tasty and redolent with aromatics. It was the best bite on the plate.
The steak-tartare, dubbed one of the best in Paris by François Régis-Gaudry, was indeed a great iteration of the classic and was definitely the most successful of the mains…
…not in the least because it came with its own generous portion of crispy golden fries.
The unevenness of this menu is not a reason to write off the restaurant entirely. Were I to return, I’d definitely give those eggs another go and, if I could be swayed from the tartare, would certainly be intrigued by the 12-hour veal in cognac or the incontournable truffled croque monsieur. The ambiance and location are unbeatable, and given the friendliness and attentiveness of the staff, I’d have no problem recommending the place to others…
I just might also tell them what to order.
Vins des Pyrénées – 25 Rue Beautreillis, 75004