Seafood has not always been something I associated with the dining scene in Paris. Sure, there were haute gastronomy classics like sole meunière and a plethora of oyster bars, but as someone who grew up within spitting distance of water, landlocked Paris, with a river running through it but no saltwater for miles, did not seem like the best place for seafood.
But the times are changing, with restaurants like Sur Mer relying on small producers to bring fresh, seasonal seafood dishes to the capital. Relying on not just quality products but also a heaping helping of innovation and the blending of international flavors, Sur Mer is exactly the sort of place I love to explore with fellow fish-loving diners.
On a recent visit, the short menu boasting a choice of both small and large plates included this razor clam tartare with summer truffle. While the truffle flavor got a bit lost, the clam itself was perfect: sweet and tender, and beautifully presented in the shell.
The octopus was what drew us to the restaurant in the first place, and while the mollusk itself didn’t disappoint – charred on the outside, tender on the inside – the beans were a bit unevenly cooked. The flavorful eggplant chutney, preserved lemon, and fennel accompaniment more than made up for the slight disappointment.
My favorite dish of the night was undoubtedly this plate of raw Saint Guénolé sardines with fresh, ripe tomatoes, lavender, and bleu d’Auvergne cheese. The association of the rich, fatty fish with the creamy bleu was a surprising stroke of genius, and a smattering of fried crouton bits over the top pushed the dish over the edge.
At Sur Mer, it’s often all in the details: the bread is exquisite, the wine list intriguing without being overwhelming. And with new post-lockdown restrictions, it boasts one of the most coveted outdoor terraces around.
Sur Mer – 53, rue de Lancry, 75010