When the Michelin brothers first started their guides, each level of the star system signified something very specific. One star meant that the food was worth a stop; two meant the food was worth a detour; three meant the food was worth a journey. It only makes sense, seeing as the Michelin brothers also made tires, to frame things in this way.
But for me, a Michelin experience, no matter the star level, is about the attention to detail, which is what I loved so much at my recent dinner at Logis de la Cadène, in Saint-Emilion.
Dinner began with an assortment of small mises en bouches, little bites that whet your palate and begin to give you an idea of the deft cuisine of Alexandre Baumard, a chef with a sense of precision that belies his youth.
Little details make the experience even more perfect: these homemade blinis were served not only with caviar but also with a house-made lemon cream that made the entire bite pop with flavor.
We had selected a three-course menu, but as is so in many Michelin-starred establishments, the main event was buffered by several small dishes, including this one: a combination of cream and sashimi-style fish filled with the fresh flavors of citrus.
For my first course, I opted for the truffle risotto, a dish that was nearly unanimously adored at our table. I loved the flavor, though I found the rice a tad overcooked. But truffles will make up for a variety of crimes, and these ones did.
For my second course, I chose Breton lobster prepared with local poultry, a combination that, for some reason, made me think of a very unfortunate Hell’s Kitchen episode where Gordon Ramsey was served shrimp wrapped in chicken. I wasn’t at all surprised to find that this was in no way similar to that disaster of a dish: impossibly tender chicken, perfectly poached lobster, and a disc of cuttlefish ink made this dish a true star.
Before moving on to dessert, the chef asked us if we would like to try a hay-smoked entrecôte. In my experience, that’s the sort of question one should never say no to, and so we acquiesced and dug into two small slices each of the most exquisite steak I’ve ever tried, rich in smoke and melt-in-your-mouth tender.
It seemed only appropriate, seeing as the restaurant was recently acquired by Château Angelus, to pair it with a glass of the renowned local wine. I especially loved these carafes, which evoke the Angelus bell.
For dessert, I opted for a mango vacherin, which was comprised of a meringue base, a mango sorbet dome, and a mango compote, topped with allspice cream and drizzled tableside with a tropical fruit sauce.
Light and full of flavor, it was the ideal end to the meal.
(Of course… there were also mignardises. It wouldn’t be a Michelin-starred experience if there weren’t.)
Logis de la Cadène – 3 Place du Marché au Bois, Saint-Émilion