I’m definitely not an expert in Japanese food, but I’ve always loved it. My first brushes with the cuisine came in the form of sushi, and while I can’t eat soba noodles (damn you, anaphylaxis!), I later became a big fan of other Japanese noodle dishes that are safe for my consumption like udon and ramen. But it took traveling to Japan with my brother and sister in 2019, for me to encounter the delicious range of possibilities afforded by the street food scene, some of which I got the opportunity to try in Osaka. And on a recent visit to Shinjuku Pigalle, the flavors of freshly fried street food enjoyed in a boisterous ambiance was exactly what came flooding back to mind.
I first noticed this restaurant thanks to its slightly offbeat vibe, with its poster-covered walls (and ceiling!), colorful lighting, and handwritten chalkboard menu boasting a very wide variety of handwritings and loads of different options to choose from. (It wasn’t until this visit that I realized that the bathrooms here have a fairly unique décor too… but I’ll leave that surprise for your visit.)
The nasu dengaku or marinated eggplant was excellent. Not only was it perfectly cooked until luxuriously tender and soft, but the rich, savory sauce was beautifully balanced with a generous sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds and fresh green onions.
The takoyaki were tender on the inside and crispy without, served with both mayo and takoyaki sauce as well as a generous seasoning of seaweed and bonito flakes. The repurposed escargot plate for serving was a fun touch!
I’m not a huge tofu fan at the best of times, but this silken tofu dish probably wouldn’t have been my fave even if I were. The pairing of daikon and tofu was a little bit bland-on-bland, and while the pool of sauce at the bottom was tasty, all in all, it just wasn’t my jam. (I did like the sauce paired with white rice, which we neglected to order at the outset but was nevertheless brought quite speedily when we decided we needed a bit of carb!)
The okonomiyaki, on the other hand, was far more my speed, coming close to rivaling the one I sampled on a food tour of one of Osaka’s covered markets. While bacon was on offer as a topping, we enjoyed this one “plain,” that is to say topped with the characteristic mayo and sweet okonomiyaki sauce, not to mention pickles and bonito. It was definitely the star of the menu for me, though it had stiff competition from the other two dishes I loved.
I’ll definitely be returning to this spot to sample more options from the ever-changing menu… though it’ll be hard to pass up the dishes I already know I love!
Shinjuku Pigalle – 52 Rue Condorcet, 75009