Paris has not long been all that kind to plant-based diners, as this reformed vegetarian who spent one summer subsiding almost entirely on salade de chèvre chaud can attest. While the vegetarian dining scape is thankfully far more rife with options these days, I’ve long been on the lookout for the sort of spot that does both well, where meat eaters and vegetarians can enjoy a meal together without either feeling like a sacrifice must be made. And I believe Semilla is just that place.
My first visit to Semilla actually dates back about a decade, to when this rue de de Seine standby was still a newbie. I can’t remember what I ate, but I believe there were some superfoods involved (quinoa maybe, or kale?) I do remember that I visited at lunch, and it was delicious.
I remember far more this time.
The menu at this industrial-chic bistro frequently offers variations on a theme: Appetizers often hail from the sea (as is perhaps apt, given that it’s owned by the same folks who helm Fish La Boissonnerie across the street). Ceviches and marinated fish are frequent fliers, and I myself opted for a leche de tigre, with generous chunks of fish in an herby marinade boasting a lovely balance of sweet, savory, and herbaceous notes.
Fish is also prevalent when it comes to mains – and frequently in the form of welcome departures from the white-fish-in-butter-sauce I see so often on more classic bistro menus. This generous portion of pollock was perfectly cooked and delicious paired with pears, onions, and cockles, the latter of which offered a lovely brininess that counterbalanced the richness of the sauce.
But the vegetarian options are just as creative. This appetizer of tender eggplant was intriguingly paired with Piedmont hazelnut paste, thin slices of button mushrooms, and a bright, almost summery seasoning of blackcurrant and basil. And the Jack be Little squash up top, stuffed with hearty grains and served with a nutty vin jaune sauce, was way more than a mere nod to plant-based diners.
Meat eaters will be happy too. Of the four choices in each category on the day of our visit, a pork chop served with polenta-encrusted sweet potato popped up on nearly every table around us, looking very tempting with its rosy hue.
And perhaps even most importantly, especially these days, the service is on point. From an abundance of awareness of our food allergies to that perfect balance between omnipresence and discretion, it’s this that catapults Semilla into greatness.
I didn’t have an opportunity to try the desserts this time (though we did start with a unique play on a gougère that was positively delicious). But if the savory is anything to go by, the final course will offer a sweet finale indeed.
Semilla – 54 Rue de Seine, 75006