Just a few days before I was supposed to leave for San Sebastian, a very interesting image popped up in my Instagram feed, informing me that one of my favorite restaurants in Paris, Martin, was partnering with a bar in San Sebastian called Gerald’s, for a one-day-only event occurring… the very evening I arrived.
Of course I pounced on it and reserved a table. Unfortunately, a few days later, I learned that an injury meant that the event wouldn’t be happening, but by then, Gerald’s was on my radar, and so moments after leaving my suitcase at my AirBnB, I met some friends at this bar and restaurant in the Gros neighborhood to sample some unique small plates and yummy local wines.
Txakoli, a slightly effervescent white wine with a uniquely saline flavor, is one of my absolute favorite beverages and can almost exclusively be found in the Basque Country. It’s no surprise, then, that my first question was whether any was served – and I was filled with glee at the answer. Not only does Gerald’s serve txakoli; they actually have a skin-contact natural bottle.
It was delicious, and I was very disappointed that I wasn’t able to bring several bottles back to Paris. But such is life, I suppose.
(If you send me some, I’ll be your very best friend.)
We paired the wine with a parade of choices from the ever-changing small-plates menu, going almost exclusively off of the suggestions of our lovely host Bella. The house-made terrine was thick and meaty, with a texture I’m almost embarrassed to say I preferred over many versions I’ve had here in France. It was chunky but also quite soft and easily spreadable, and the pickled guindillas served as an accompaniment were stellar.
I was less enticed by the ceviche in tiger’s milk which, while tasty (and with just enough spice!) was a bit tough for my tastes.
In keeping with our trend of sampling French foods in Spain, we enjoyed a unique, super-flavorful steak tartare with far more shallot than I’m used to (a welcome change!)
We also sampled beets with anchovies and house-made labneh, a combination I’ve tried before but sill love just as much.
While I’m usually against ordering pasta in restaurants, the house-made noodles with ragu were quite tasty.
But I’ve gotta say… hands-down, my favorite dish of the evening were these tiny shrimp, served simply roasted and salted. With shells soft enough to eat, these shrimp are best consumed like tiny sweet popcorn.
I could have eaten a whole second plate of them on my own.
Gerald’s Bar -Â Iparragirre Kalea, 13, 20001 Donostia