Rule #1 of SAaM: order the chicken bao. Rule #2: do not be deceived by the word “side.” Sides here are bigger than mains; mains come with other sides that are not the same as the sides listed under “sides” on the menu.
Got that straight? Then let us begin.
SAaM positions itself as a peddler of Korean and Taiwanese “tapas,” which actually proved an apt description of at least one of the offerings at this pocket-sized spot just steps from the Canal Saint-Martin: a deep-fried kimchi ball that reminded me at once of arancini and of pintxos I had in San Sebastian. This one was purportedly kimchi flavored, although it mainly tasted of… fried. It was certainly appealing, but it paled in comparison to what was to follow.
The kimchi balls and this skillet of tteok-bokki – sautéed rice dumplings – were both listed on the menu as sides but were actually quite consequential in size. This one, with its rich sauce and pleasingly chewy texture, was my favorite of the two. A combo of spiced sauce and a drizzle of crème fraiche was a pleasant foray into what fusion street food can be, and I am here for it.
The main event here is the bao bun, which you can order stuffed with your choice of slow-cooked pork belly, tofu, fish, lamb, beef, or, my personal favorite, five-spice marinated fried chicken with slaw and peanuts. The buns come with salad (delicious and also topped with gyoza!) or fries (fine, but too much, considering the plethora of other things on offer). The love really shines in these, the most diminutive offering on the menu.
In fact, on my next visit, I might just grab some bao to go and devour them by the Canal!
SaAMÂ – 59Bis Rue de Lancry, 75010
I am amazed at the plethora of versions of combining several ingredients to get a completely different disk/cuisine. Beautiful postT