I recently finished writing a new piece about the possible disappearance of the classic French café (coming soon to a magazine shop near you), so it felt particularly apt to meet up with friends at Le Polidor, which, while not technically a café, was a frequent watering hole for such writers and artists as Ionesco, Boris Vian, André Gide and Ernest Hemingway. (It’s no wonder Woody Allen chose it to film scenes from his Midnight in Paris.)
If Woody chose Polidor, it’s also because it hews to the image of the 19th century bistro, even today. One of the oldest bistros in Paris, it evolved slowly but surely from its original role as a crèmerie, and by the late 19th century, it was known chiefly as a restaurant, a role it maintains to this day. With a storefront that hasn’t changed since the beginning of the 20th century and a gorgeous dining room bedecked with gingham napkins and warm wood, it’s exactly what you’d hope a bistro in Paris would look like… and unlike most, the food here actually delivers.
The friend who recommended this spot swears by the sea bass, served on this July day with a tomato relish and green asparagus. She pairs it with the house-made mashed potatoes, which are indeed excellent –and I should know. My beef bourguignon, which I chose over the intriguing curry-spiked steak tartare on our server’s suggestion, who claimed “no one has ever complained about the bourguignon,” was served atop a silky pile of the purée. The beef itself was fork tender and delicious, and the appropriately wine-forward sauce managed to be sumptuously rich without being overwhelming.
Tarte tatin is the house specialty dessert, served with a side of cream.
But given the season, I couldn’t say no to a square of sour cherry-studded clafoutis, topped with a sprinkling of powdered sugar and crushed almonds.
Reviews of le Polidor online usually have only one qualm with this spot, and that’s the slow service. And I’ll admit, while we were well taken care of at the start, the staff was quickly in the weeds, and ordering dessert or getting the bill soon became exercises in futility. (And I say that as someone well-versed in French dining rhythms.) If you’re in a hurry, I’d recommend asking for the bill when the desserts come… but given how positively gorgeous this space is, my real suggestion is that you not be in a hurry at all.
Polidor – 41 Rue Monsieur le Prince, 75006