I’ve got a list miles long (artfully categorized by arrondissement on Instagram) of restaurants I want to visit in Paris. And because, at least pre-pandemic, there were always so many new ones popping up, sometimes spots stayed on the list for a long time… far past when the buzz had died down. Such is the case for Bonhomie, which tantalized me with its octopus and then promptly was forgotten in favor of places closer to me. But I trekked out to the other side of the 10th to meet a friend on the temporary summery terrace of this beautiful restaurant recently, and I wished I had made my visit more of a priority.
Bonhomie is managed by the team behind Little Red Door, a speakeasy-style cocktail bar in my favorite part of the Marais. As is to be expected, it boasts a nice cocktail list – short and sweet, with an ever-changing seasonal option. The night we visited, it was a melon G+T, but seeing as it was Monday, in an attempt to be somewhat good, I abstained and instead dug into the edible side of the menu, conveniently made available via QR code.
Bonhomie sticks resolutely to the appetizer, main, dessert menu format, which I find refreshing in a city plagued by too-small small plates. However, since my dining companion and I are used to sharing (or were, in pre-pandemic days), we opted to order two of each and split. Thankfully, we were offered side plates from our chipper, Anglophone server (and a smile!), so we were able to sample everything without worries of contamination.
We started things off with these ultra-crisp zucchini “kofte,” just one of more than a handful of vegetarian options. Light and moist on the inside and totally caramelized on the outside, these kofte were made with a combo of grated zucchini and served with fresh tzatziki.
Our second starter was slightly more consequential: a Banka trout tartare served atop a disc of pickled beetroot, dotted with sweet gherkins and dill.
With a few fried pita chips and a sprinkling of dehydrated beetroot on the side, this was a surprising dish that combined sweet, sour, and savory in a way that I’m not used to seeing on French menus – and which was quite welcome.
In a surprising turn of events, however, the best was yet to come. While appetizers tend to be the most star-worthy plates on most menus, our mains of choice were even more outstanding. This octopus was perfectly cooked – both tender and crisp – and served with fennel and only-slightly oily caponata.
The slightly diminutive portion size of this cubed watermelon, feta, and olive salad can be forgiven for its almost criminally reasonable 9 euro pricetag – not to mention its deliciousness.
Bonhomie is a great option for vegetarians or those dining with vegetarians who still want delightful fish, seafood, and meat options to choose from. The concept – Mediterranean flavors with a contemporary twist – may be old news, but somehow it manages to stay fresh at Bonhomie.
Bonhomie – 22, rue d’Enghien, 75010