From the beginning of this month, France’s restaurants reopened – out of doors, only. And it might surprise you to learn that I didn’t go running to make up for lost time dining out. While I’ve missed my faves – and definitely have a short list of places I’ll be hitting up in the next few months – I was also far more excited to have unhindered access to parks for picnics. That said, I applaud restaurateurs for rising to the challenge of reopening in one of the rainiest Junes on record – including the day that I did indeed visit Petit Navire for an early birthday dinner.
I first visited this plant-forward small plates restaurant steps from the Parc de Belleville last year, and with a menu that has changed countless times since my last visit, it was well overdue for an encore.
After a delightful complimentary plate of pan con tomate on a focaccia-like creation, this visit featured a new play on the baked eggplant half, this time seasoned with smoked eggplant purée, harissa, pickled onions, pomegranate, and lemon verbena. It boasted just the right balance of smoke, spice, acidity, and sweetness, and that toasty eggplant skin was delightful.
I deviated slightly from my mostly-plant-based mentality to try this pork belly with kimchi (seriously, how could I not?) Cooked over 24 hours, it was luscious and rich, and, quite frankly, this portion (at just 16 euros) was almost too consequential, given the fattiness of the pork. (That’s not a real criticism. I loved this.)
The only misstep for me? This green “shakshuka,” which was oddly served cold. The flavors were nice, though the salt was a bit subdued (given the chilly temperature of the dish). Those garlic chips were lovely, but other than that, this one was a bit… confusing.
Not confusing at all? The star of the evening: zucchini “meatballs” (no meat here!) with yogurt, capers, dill, and lemon. These were tender and light inside with a crispy exterior fried to perfection.
In lieu of dessert, we opted for the cheese course. An extra working just that night was confused by the offering – Brillat-Savarin fermier or Comté, not both, and when we were brought a plate only of the latter, we pulled a very un-French move and asked for a replacement. Luckily, the staff here is as professional as they are generous with their cheese portions, and the Brillat – paired with house-made pita and carob honey – was the perfect way to conclude this meal – my first out since deconfinement.
Petit Navire – 85 Rue Julien Lacroix, 75020