Franco-Korean fusion might seem like an outlier, but it’s actually a category proliferating quite a bit on the Parisian culinary landscape, of late, thanks in large part (I believe, anecdotally, but I’m very much not an expert on this) from the popularity and near-fame of Pierre Sang-Boyer, Top Chef France finalist back in 2011. Since then, not only has he opened his eponymous restaurants throughout the city, but we’ve also seen OMA, Octave, KBG, and more.
As a fan of Korean flavors, I was thrilled when a friend dropped Perception into my Instagram inbox, and soon we were sitting in the spacious, industrial-chic dining room in Pigalle, digging into the menu of this brand-new addition to the culinary landscape.
An ultra-reasonable 35 euro prix fixe is on offer for lunchtime, with three options in each category divided – perhaps accidentally though I’d venture to guess not – into vegetarian, fish, and meat. After making our selections, we were treated to an amuse-bouche of tender veal topped with a dollop of kimchi aioli. While the bite might have benefitted from a touch of radish to lend a touch of freshness and crunch, it was a delightful harbinger for what was to follow.
The bread service was offered with a generous round of olive-infused butter with loads of depth and earthiness. A sprinkling of fleur de sel might just have pushed this up to 11, but as it was, it was very good.
My apologies for the awful picture of this delicious appetizer comprised of blowtorched marinated mackerel accompanied by a beet and black-raspberry purée.
This delicate dish was a phenomenal play of earthy and sweet flavors that I positively loved.
But the other appetizer proved to be my favorite dish of the day: a deep caramelized onion purée deglazed with soy and mirin, with tiny pearl onions, croutons, a watercress coulis akin to a pesto, and a shower of Parmesan cheese. A French onion soup without the soup (have I told you, friends, that I don’t like soup?) it was a delightful fusion approach to a Parisian stalwart. I am so here for it.
Moving right along, we sampled cuttlefish with seasonal red cabbage and turnip, and frankly, I was in awe just of the physical spectacle that was this plate. Garnished with confit shallot, sesame, and a lovely jus, it was rich and moreish while also managing to remain light.
The vegetarian main saw beautiful, tiny leaves of Savoy cabbage stuffed with a heady combination of tofu, spinach, mushrooms, and kimchi, and garnished tableside with a dashi broth. A bit salty for my taste (something I’m assured is a me problem), it was nevertheless yet another genius way of mashing up a classic French (in this case, Alsatian) dish with the flavors I know and love from Korean cuisine.
A slight service hiccough meant that instead of the lemon crémeux, we were served a chocolate ganache with chocolate shards, all arranged atop a soy milk sorbet. Rich and not too sweet, it was nice, but I’m not a chocolate fan. Still, those who are would certainly love this sweet finish to a meal rich in creative inspiration.
Perception – 53 Rue Blanche, 75009