The first time I visited the little bistro now known as Parcelles, it was Paris’ foremost address for dining on horse meat. But while Le Taxi Jaune has since driven off into the sunset, there’s something of the Old World appeal in this upmarket bistro in the heart of the Marais, where French classics get just the right touch of contemporary flair in a homey space with tiled floors and pristine white tablecloths, all dominated by a beautiful bar.
The menu on my visit was more robust than many I’ve grown used to these days in Paris, with three small snacks (oysters, olives, cecina) followed by five appetizers and four mains, not to mention the specials – one in each category. That there were three vegetarian options among them (one starter, two mains) is laudable, and that they all sounded enticing (watercress velouté, house-made gnocchi in sage butter, and red kuri squash tart with Roscoff onions) a veritable treat.
That said, I went for true old school in my ordering, at least for my first course: The pig’s head terrine with parsley and pickles was perfectly seasoned, ribboned with flavorful white fat and sprinkled generously with flaky salt. I relished every bite – both paired with the Ten Belles sourdough and on its own.
My dining companion opted, instead, for a line-caught porgy tartare seasoned with Cham-ponzu vinaigrette, one of the subtle international touches that serves to both elevate the menu and provide a certain cohesion I really enjoyed.
Such flair was found on my chosen main – sea bass in a bouillabaisse reduction with cauliflower purée and grilled leeks – whose richness was carefully tempered with a smattering of thinly sliced bits of lemon rind.
The lamb, meanwhile, was far more consequential (particularly for lunchtime) with a pairing of both chops and rump served with carrots, chanterelle mushrooms, and an au jus reduction.
We bypassed the beautiful looking desserts in favor of delicious Terres de Café coffee, but after staring jealously at the lemon meringue tartlet on another table, I may need to return before long.
Parcelles – 13, rue du Chapon, 75003