1. Even after eleven years in Paris, I’m always discovering new things about my adopted city. In this case, two: a new neighborhood, Butte aux Cailles, and a new color of Wallace Fountain. These fountains (which boast potable water!) were added to the city in the 19th century, and most of them are painted a rich, dark green. Discovering this bright blue one was just the first surprise I encountered on my walk through this neighborhood.
2. Butte aux Cailles is an area of Paris’ 13th arrondissement. Historically, it was home to a large number of windmills, a quarry, and eventually many of Paris’ tanneries, thanks to the Bièvre River that ran through it. Today, while the tannery industry is long gone, this area retains an air of an independent village within the city, making me think of Montmartre (sans all the crowds).
3. Butte aux Cailles draws your attention not only because its architecture is so different from the rest of Paris, but also thanks to the street art on nearly every corner (like this hedgehog, hard at work).
4. I was lucky enough to visit Butte aux Cailles on a day filled with sunshine, making lunch at a café terrace a required part of the afternoon. Our waiter at Le Bouche à Oreilles (a clever play on words that combines “word of mouth” and “earplugs”) propped the day’s menu against this scooter – hope its owner didn’t mind!
5. There are very few spots in Paris these days where I feel completely dépaysée – out of my normal element, surprised, and wowed by a new glimpse of beauty in this city I so love. But Butte aux Cailles certainly gave that back to me. I’m sure I’ll be spending many more sunny afternoons there as spring fast approaches.