Le Petit Vendôme is perhaps best known for its sandwiches, made to order for the scads of people who queue up for just this purpose every day on their lunch break. The sandwiches are indeed delicious, made on crispy Julien baguette de tradition and filled with your choice of one ingredient (6 euros) or two (8 euros) from a list that includes Cantal ham, garlic-infused saucisson à l’ail, pork liver, or fourme d’Ambert cheese. For 6.50, you can upgrade to Auvergnat specialties like house-made terrine, andouille, or Roquefort; for 7, you can get the sandwich of the day (chipolata-onion, on the day of my visit). And for 8, you can opt for the Spécial, with country ham, fresh goat cheese, and Provençal olive oil.
But despite the draw of these sandwiches – and the line out the door formed by those looking to get their hands on one – there’s an underdog I think is just as worthy of discussion: the bistro menu.
Le Petit Vendôme is a true blue bistro dans son jus, an old-school spot walking the walk. The tables are far too close together; you need to shout to be heard. And that’s half the fun.
French onion soup (12) is exactly as it should be: a rich broth in which float generous slices of country bread topped with a demure layer of gratinéed cheese.
Rumsteak (19) comes with your choice of sauce from béarnaise, Roquefort, or pepper. The salad is a little bit sad, but the house-made fries are crispy and golden, and perhaps best of all, they’re also available to go if you’re here for the sambos.
I can never resist boudin noir (18.50), especially this time of year. And this one from Christian Para did not disappoint. A generous round of boudin is perfectly crisp on the outside and tender within, with a very peppery gravy ladled generously over the slightly textured mashed potatoes. Rather than err on the side of the overly rich, as many Robuchon wannabes are wont to do, this mash brings out the best in the humble potato, providing the perfect foil for the already rich boudin. And the sautéed apples add the ideal note of sweetness perfect for autumn.
The menu also features no shortage of charcuterie boards with many of the same ingredients you’ll see in the sandwiches. Appetizers include escargots, which smelled positively heavenly, as well as a no-nonsense egg-mayo with a side of lentils and macédoine. Lovers of offal will certainly find their bliss, whether in the veal’s foot terrine appetizer or the lamb pied et paquets main. Vegetarians, however, will be hard-pressed to find anything on this menu, seeing as even the goat cheese salad has ham on it.
We didn’t make it to dessert, but here, again, you’ll find many of the classics: tarte tatin, riz au lait, and pistachio crème brûlée all feature on the menu. And I have no doubt I’ll be back soon to give one of them a try.
Le Petit Vendôme – 8, rue des Capucines, 75002