I’ve been meaning to get myself to Le Maquis ever since it was chosen as Le Fooding’s top bistro in Paris late last year. Bistro culture in the city has been on a downswing as international influences come out to play. The proof was in Le Maquis’ competition: Cheval d’Or and Cuisine (review forthcoming on Paris by Mouth) were both in the running as well, the former boasting a pan-Asian/Chinese accent and the latter Japanese sensibility.
It was thus with an open mind and a keen desire for something typically French that I ventured to Le Maquis, which offers only-slightly-revisited classic bistro cuisine. Picture a French grandma’s favorite dishes in smaller portions and dressed up with top-quality ingredients. Finish things off with typical décor including a tiled floor, zinc bar, and red leather banquettes, and Le Maquis looks like everything a good bistro should be.
Things started off strong, with a short-and-sweet selection of natural wines by the glass. The reasonably-priced Chablis (6 euro, left) boasted a rich pineapple aroma, while the cloudier Melon de Bourgogne from Nantes (6 euro, right) had a powerful minerality and a salinity that almost made you feel like you were sipping it while overlooking the crashing waves of the Atlantic.
The first dish, too, was pitch-perfect: tender leeks in a tangy vinaigrette dusted with grated feta cheese and baby mint leaves. It was one of two appetizer choices on the almost criminally reasonable 16-euro two-course lunch deal (three courses for 18 euro). It also may well have been the best dish of the day.
The other appetizer had some unfortunate false notes. These mussels in a spiced marinière broth were flavorful, but half of them arrived closed. And while I’m not usually one to expect American customer service in France, no effort was made to rectify the problem, either by replacing them or taking them off the bill.
Mains were decidedly fine. This yellow chicken supreme was tender, juicy, and perfectly cooked, and the sauce and polenta were tasty, but the dish was just slightly underseasoned, and the choice to pair it with both endive and fried sage leaves lent a one-two punch that that even I, a lover of all things bitter, found slightly overpowering.
The sauce, it must be said, was divine.
The skate wing, meanwhile, was served with a puttanesca-esque combo of tomato, potato, spinach, tomato, and caper. It was perfectly fine.
And I don’t think I mean that as a slight.
I’m constantly on the lookout for good classic French bistros in the city, particularly for out-of-town visitors. While I love myself a fusion or contemporary dish, I also know that many people come to the city to try bistro cuisine. And there’s something to be said for simple French food done up right.
I’d be interested to see what Le Maquis does at night: with more choice (and higher prices) as well as the offal-heavy menu I know it to boast, it’s possible that this restaurant could move from fine to fantastic. As it is, I remain curious but not blown away.
Le Maquis – 53 Rue des Cloys, 75018