The nature of my job means that I’m often racing to visit the same new restaurants as many other reviewers, which is a shame considering the number of phenomenal spots still flying under the radar that have long been quietly been crafting stellar food. I recently stumbled upon one of them in the 9th, and I cannot wait to return.
Lazu, formerly known as Bouillon 47, gave itself a makeover this year. Chef-owner Rémi Lazurowicz’s new menu is centered on contemporary, seasonal, bistronomic fare, though a few indelible markers of the hearty bistro dishes the restaurant was once known for remain, including the caramelized veal sweetbreads purported to be the restaurant’s specialty. While I adore sweetbreads, I didn’t manage to try them on my first visit – there were too many other tantalizing offerings demanding my attention.
The service here was impeccable from the jump. A sole server presided over the small dining room, rendered spacious by way of attention to elbow room between tables as well as a mirrored statement wall at one end. We enjoyed a glass of Champagne and a complimentary lentil dip studded with pickled mustard seeds and pickled red onion while mulling over our choices, with four appetizers and three mains joined by a handful of daily specials.
To start, we split a tumble of seasonal porcini and chanterelle mushrooms glazed in a meat reduction (19). The mushrooms were ultra-savory and rich in umami flavors, perfectly paired with slightly sweet brioche topped with chestnut paste – a fall and winter staple, in France. The spinach mousseline offered a striking pop of color, and it also added a lovely vegetal note to offset the richness of the other two components on the plate. Generous without being too much, it was a great way to begin the meal.
There’s a vegetarian option for each course, and the main on the night of our visit was pan-fried gnocchi with Parmesan cream, fresh figs, fried garlic, and tarragon sorbet (29). I thought we’d missed the boat on figs, but somehow, Lazu still knew where to get some excellent ones, even in late October.
The garlic was quite literally battered and fried into sweet little nuggets covered with crunchy breadcrumbs, and the tarragon sorbet offered a really lovely, refreshing counterpoint to the richness of the dish, with both its herbaceous flavors and its colder temperature. The ratio of gnocchi to fried garlic could have leaned a bit more heavily towards the former, but ultimately, this was a delicious, ultra-creative vegetarian main.
I adored the monkfish tail (33) served with Paimpol beans in a rich sherry vinegar and beef reduction. The fennel salad and horseradish emulsion were welcome additions to bring a lighter, more vegetal flair to the dish, and the bean broth was so savory I spooned up the last of it, accompanied by very good sourdough.
Dessert was a house-made brioche French toast (15), a dessert that seems to be taking over from rice pudding as the nostalgic dessert must-have on bistro menus. This one stood out thanks to the autumn crisp grape topping and vin chaud coulis so good I ended up tipping a few drops into my spoon. It also came with a quenelle of lovely red muscat grape sorbet, which offset the richness this dessert is known for. We paired it with glasses of dessert wine, including a Maury served directly from the giant glass demi-john, for a lovely touch of that classic French spectacle I so adore in restaurants.
Lazu’s bistronomic approach quietly slips this restaurant into special occasion destination status. This, combined with the soulful, seasonal, surprising cuisine makes it everything I hope for when I stumble across a little-known gem.
Lazu – 47, rue Marguerite de Rochechouart, 75009