I adore sushi, but I tend to avoid seeking it out in Paris. The sort of mid-range sushi spot so easy to stumble upon in New York, Los Angeles, or Tokyo is woefully absent from the local dining scape, and most of the time, you have to pay top dollar for even passable Japanese fare. And even then, I sometimes end up disappointed. But when a friend came to town who’s an even keener culinary researcher than I am and suggested we grab lunch at EnYaa near the Palais Royal, I jumped at the chance to try some excellent raw fish… and I wasn’t disappointed.
This beautiful restaurant just steps from Palais Royal is soberly decorated, allowing the exposed limestone of the cellar-like ambiance to do most of the talking. While most of the drinks list is dedicated to sake and Champagne, we were tempted by a glass of Japanese wine. At just 9 percent alcohol, it was decidedly light, and while it had a nice, aromatic nose, it fell a bit flat on the palate.
The same cannot be said for the food. We forewent the lunch deal in favor of ordering à la carte, with two of us starting with the chawanmushi (8), a ginger-spiked eggy flan drizzled with poultry broth.
I opted instead for a cold combo of mushrooms and spinach seasoned with a cold, soy-based sauce (12). The toothsomeness of the perfectly cooked vegetables married wonderfully with the sauce, and I loved the flecks of toasted sesame seed for crunch and nuttiness.
The cod seasoned with white miso (38) was cooked to perfection, as was the aubergine, which was topped with a sweet-and-savory white miso glaze. It was paired with simple white rice and some typical Japanese pickles.
I was here for the chirashi (42), and it did not disappoint. A base of rice seasoned with omelette, mushroom, and shizo was topped with tuna, salmon, mackerel, and a bounty of salmon roe. The true wasabi and plentiful pickled ginger were lovely additions, as was the rich red miso soup. I liked the interplay of textures thanks to the slightly seared salmon and the creaminess of the mackerel. The seasoning was perfection.
We split a toasted tea flan for dessert (10), and while diminutive, it packed a wallop of flavor. The deep caramel sauce over the top really pushed it over the edge.
This spot is pricey, but if you’re on the lookout for truly excellent Japanese fine dining fare in Paris, it’s worth a second look.
EnYaa – 37, rue de Montpensier, 75001