I love a short menu – and not just because it makes it easier for me to decide what to order (I’m nothing if not a waffler). But a short menu also seems like a clear indication that everything is made in-house and fresh. If I had any doubt of that at 21G Dumpling, a peek into the downstairs kitchen on my way to the bathroom proved that the ultra-savory fillings were made just steps from where I tucked in.
That the food here was delicious is of course the main reason I recommend you pay it a visit – and I’ll get back to it in just a second. But before I do, I need to make a special nod to the wonderful service and welcome. A friend and I stopped by this spot about 20 minutes before closing due to a combination of poor planning and a stroke of inspiration that had us both writing well past normal lunchtime. When we waltzed into the empty restaurant, we were nevertheless welcomed with a smile and given ample time to relax and peruse the menu, from which we ordered a slew of choices, each one tastier than the next.
I began with a starter of cucumber pickles with Espelette pepper – a super-generous portion (especially at six euro) with the ideal blend of spice, crunch, and acid.
We then shared three six-piece orders of dumplings. First up were the house special: xiao long bao made with farm-raised pork and ginger. They were absolutely delicious and so pretty, served in their steamer basket with a side of ginger-infused soy for dipping.
More surprising, perhaps, were the duck confit siu mai, with their rich, mineral flavor almost reminiscent of really excellent liver. Seasoned with hoisin sauce, they were ultra moreish and boasted a creamy texture and a considerable heft.
My favorites, however, were a last-minute addition to our order: farm-raised chicken guo tie. The thick dumpling wrappers on these were super chewy with a crisp base from the pan-cooking, and the filling was absolutely delicious, with a phenomenal balance between the juicy, meatiness of the chicken and the aromatic quality of the generous use of ginger and garlic.
For those looking for even more copious offerings, the restaurant also serves sesame noodles, fried rice, and a variety of bao and bao burgers. We, however, opted instead to save room for dessert. (At least this time…)
A Hong Kong-style egg waffle was served with gianduja (Nutella) and salted butter caramel with peanuts and whipped cream.
Sago Mango, meanwhile, married tapioca pearls with a creamy coconut-mango sauce and a sprinkle of black sesame seeds.
Next time, I’d love to sample some of the vegetarian offerings and perhaps a bao, but I must admit… I’m not sure I’ll be able to resist ordering the dishes I fell for once more. Guess I’ll need to return with a big appetite – and I recommend the same to anyone who pays this spot a visit!
21G Dumpling – 167 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, 75011