Talent abounds in the kitchen at Substance, where every dish is a creation highlighting textures, flavors, and colors, with no detail out of place.
I first visited Substance last winter, for lunch, but was recently told I simply had to return to dinner, and my arm thusly twisted, I did.
Friends, it was an experience.
We started the night off with two amuse bouches: this one, a ham salad with Mont d’Or cheese, pickles, and curry…
… and this one, a zingy roll of celery root filled with bulgur and preserved lemon. Both were evocative of dishes I’ve seen on Scandinavian-inspired menus, and serving both – one rich and creamy, the other bright and light – was the perfect indicator of the mastery of flavor that would follow.
This dish of cancoillotte cheese with smoked potato and trout roe followed – a similar dish had already been on the menu at my last visit, and this little bite’s encore was more than welcome.
My favorite dish of the night was this “perfect egg” appetizer, served with salsify, onion brûlée, and powdered harissa. A tiny hint of spice and the earthy sweetness of the onion made this dish a real winner in my book.
Our second appetizer was fantastic, too: pillowy gnocchi with a deep black color thanks to activated charcoal, served with fermented watercress, smoked egg yolk sauce, and a smoked sausage jus.
For mains, we opted for this stunning duck that flies in the face of the preconceived notion of drab, colorless winter veg: an assortment of broccoli, kale, and bright purple cauliflower formed the base for the perfectly cooked duck studded with smoked eel.
This tasty trout was outshined by its accompaniment of pickled mushrooms, butternut purée, and aromatic vin jaune sauce.
We were far too stuffed for dessert, but greatly enjoyed these little mignardises of lemon madeleines and hazelnut-chocolate tartlets anyhow.
The price tag at Substance definitely means it’s a special occasion sort of meal, at least for dinner. But you certainly won’t be disappointed. Next time, I may even have to splurge for the 6-course tasting menu.
Substance – 18 Rue de Chaillot, 75116