When I started hearing about Double Dragon, a restaurant opened by the Levha sisters behind le Servan, I immediately put it on my list. As I scrolled through Instagram pictures from diners who got there before me featuring everything from barbecued Camembert to marinated ceviche-like preparations, I formed an image of my mind of what it would be: somewhere on the cusp between French-accented Chinese and Chinese-influenced French.
I was wrong. The menu, at least on the night I visited, veered steadfastly Chinese for sure: the Frenchest things on offer could be found on the natural wine list. I immediately had to reframe my idea of what Double Dragon was going to be, and while this isn’t necessarily a bad thing, it did make me wonder how much of my enjoyment of a restaurant comes down to how well it meets my expectations.
After all, once I decided to forget my misconception of Double Dragon, it proved to do what it’s doing very well.
These siu mai dumplings were delicious and perfectly seasoned.
This sweet-and-spicy pork belly – perhaps my favorite dish of the night – boasted a fatty, flavorful moreishness I couldn’t stop eating long after I was full.
This dish of veggies with spiced broth, egg yolk, and silky tofu was lighter and simpler than many others, but I appreciated the artistry of its service.
This dish of white asparagus with smoked vinegar mayonnaise and bonito flakes found the perfect pair for an ingredient I see served throughout Paris in almost the exactly the same way every spring.
Even deep-fried bao buns with XO sauce got a tiny French touch…
… thanks to a Comté filling.
This dish, for as beautiful as it was, felt a little bit overly fatty to me (a rarity, especially in small plate format), but the sauce was quite tasty.
The ambiance of this restaurant is clubby and loud, with seating that’s often elbow-to-elbow and service that’s informal but knowledgeable. It’s a welcome addition to a frankly saturated market of shared small plates, thanks in no small part to on-point seasoning in a city with a profound dearth of spice.
All in all, it’s a very good example of why one shouldn’t judge a book by its cover. (Or a restaurant by its Instagram feed.)
Double Dragon – 52, rue Saint-Maur, 75011