Rice often seems to take a secondary role in Westernized Asian restaurants, but brothers Alexandre and Olivier Lin have put it center-stage at Horiz, where rice is the star of every dish – and most of the drinks. Inspired by their fine dining backgrounds (Alexandre is formerly of the Four Seasons, while Olivier previously worked at Capitaine) as well as by the Wenzhou cuisine long championed here by their parents, the brothers revisit a host of choices from niangao rice noodles to sticky rice bing that with a menu boasting a handful of international winks to add a modern flair.
Cocktails here often start with a rice base, like the Bramble Geisha (12) made with soju, rice sake, juniper, and blackberry, which is refreshing and just sweet enough.
The Horiz Sour (12) begins with a base of long pepper-infused rice alcohol and apple with a lovely silky texture. It’s served in a little rice bowl (complete with its own lid), a cute presentation that doesn’t belie the perfection of this cocktail, second to only one other in my personal list of the city’s best sours.
The marinated aubergines (7) were listed as a tapas, but the copious, flavorful portion could well have been a main. Chinese aubergines are deep-fried and marinated in a secret vinaigrette recipe with house-made chile oil for a sticky textured sauce that pairs perfectly with steamed white rice.
The shrimp niangao (13.50) were delicious, stir-fried with Shanghai cabbage, carrot, and red onion. I liked the texture of these diminutive noodles, which had a chewy texture perfect for pairing with the copious quantity of veg. If I had one criticism, it would be that they were a bit stingy with the shrimp. What few there were were delicious!
The bing were undoubtedly the stars of the menu: A pair of sticky rice pancakes fried until crisp and then folded around a choice of fillings. The okonomiyaki (9 for two) was calling my name with its Japanese-inspired filling of omelet with hispi cabbage, mayo, and caramelized sauce.
But it was actually a last-minute addition to the order – the soy-braised tofu bing (9 for two) with house chile sauce and soy sprouts – that proved the most memorable, given the bright, intense flavors and the contrast between the soft tofu and crispy bing.
We were too full for dessert, but given the pastry pedigree of Chef Alexandre, we’ll definitely be back to give them a try.
Horiz – 8, rue au Maire, 75003