I first visited Chez Fernand years ago thanks to my aunt, who had prepared a full-on BINDER full of spots to visit during her time in Paris. At the time, I fell head-over-heels for this bistro in the 6th arrondissement complete with gingham tablecloths, where the pâté de campagne was served with a vat of pickles. Over a decade later, it’s impossible to get in without a reservation… but I wondered if it was one of those spots that was good for the neighborhood or simply good.
The answer? It’s complicated.
I had one of the first reservations of the night at Chez Fernand, but since I was early and my dining companion was running a few minutes late, I was able to take in the influx of other diners arriving at 7 on the dot to take advantage of this the traditional fare on offer – many of whom, lacking a reservation on this Monday night, were turned away at the door. But before the anglophones around me even placed their order, I began to understand at least part of what keeps people coming back. The service is amiable, even friendly, with a firm command of English and an American approach to customer service. (When a neighboring table chose a wine they didn’t like, the server spirited the bottle away and offered something totally different – unheard of behavior, in France.)
Food-wise, French onion soup, foie gras, and escargots are all present and accounted for on the appetizer menu, while mains include cod with aioli and chorizo and duck à l’orange. Prices skew a bit more expensive than in many bistros, with apps hovering somewhere between 14.50 and 16.50 for the most part; mains are between 30 and 40. These prices are nothing compared to New York prices, but in Paris, a bistro charging this much would have to blow me out of the water. And therein lies the rub.
My friend ordered a simple, tasty plate of wild sea bass with beurre blanc and sautéed veg (39.50). I, meanwhile, went for what was highlighted on the menu as the house specialty: the beef bourguignon (34.50).
Lauded as “unmissable” and “legendary,” the beef arrived at the table in a cast-iron cassolette and certainly looked appetizing.
The waiter swiftly, ceremoniously served me a portion, and moments later, I dug in… only to find that it was just fine.
There was nothing particularly wrong with it. The sauce was a bit bland; the beef cheeks could have been more tender. I might have liked more carrots, a richer, thicker sauce. All in all, it was wholly serviceable, but certainly not the best in Paris.
And yet I can’t help wanting to recommend this spot. Its service and ambiance are exactly what I assume most visitors to Paris are looking for, and it’s located ultra-centrally, sure to tick many boxes for busy travelers hoping to get dinner not far from their hotel. I’m not writing it off, but I’m not convinced it’s worth crossing the city for.
Chez Fernand – 9, rue Christine, 75006