In my personal opinion, French people are way too comfortable with having food poisoning.
Generally speaking, I try very hard not to make sweeping generalizations, but in this case, I really can’t help it. Since I’ve moved here, I’ve been astonished at how frequently French people have a “stomach bug.” (And moreover, how willingly they share the details of their ailments with others.)
I wouldn’t immediately jump to the conclusion of food poisoning, of course, unless I had ample evidence. For this, I point to exhibit A:Â as opposed to folks back home, the French are totally fine with leaving food out, including meat. Even I’ve started doing it: making a stew and, instead of refrigerating leftovers overnight, just putting the lid of my Le Creuset back on top and heating it up again the next day.
It’s a striking difference with regards to the American approach, something that I noticed particularly poignantly when I was still working in food media. Our particularly TV-savvy American chefs always made a big show of washing everything that had been in the vicinity of raw chicken with hot water and soap, and when I was recently binging old episodes of Rachael Ray’s 30-Minute Meals (no judging, please), I noticed that Ms. Ray herself took at least 45 seconds out of her cooking marathons to show how important this step is.
I’m not sure I’ll ever be completely OK with how frequently – or how nonchalantly – the French complain of some sort of stomach ailment… but I’ve also stopped looking on in horror as the Country Boy eats directly out of an open container of raw bacon lardons.
Beef and Sweet Potato Chili
2 tablespoons lard or vegetable oil
1 beef paleron (chuck), or other braising cut, 2-3 pounds
1 onion, peeled and halved
1 dried ancho chile, stem and seeds removed
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1 tablespoon dried cumin
2 teaspoons dried coriander
1 teaspoon Cayenne pepper
1 32-ounce can whole, peeled tomatoes
3 ounces bacon lardons (bacon cut into matchsticks)
1 pound ground beef
2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed
salt and pepper, to taste
Heat the oil or lard in a large cast iron Dutch oven, like a le Creuset. Season the beef generously with salt, and sear on all sides until nicely browned. When you turn the beef to the last side, add the onion and the dried ancho chile. After the beef and onion have colored a bit (about 4 minutes), add the spices, followed directly by the tomatoes.
Add enough water to cover the meat by three-quarters. When the liquid comes to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook 2-3 hours, or until the meat shreds easily with a fork.
Remove the meat from the pot and purée the vegetables until smooth. Set aside.
Heat the same pot over medium heat, and add the lardons. Cook until they have rendered their fat and become nicely browned, then remove with a skimmer and add the ground beef to the remaining fat. Season with salt and pepper and cook until lightly browned, then add the reserved sauce.
Shred the cooked beef with two forks and add it to the pot. Add the sweet potatoes and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, for about 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. Add the cooked lardons and serve.