A bouchon is typically a very traditional restaurant, but as I was doing my research, I stumbled upon Le Bouchon des Filles, which somehow straddles authenticity and modernity. As its name suggests, this restaurant is run by an all-female leadership team, and the food is slightly more contemporary in style.
Armed with a glass of “natural!” Beaujolais, I dug into this menu with great curiosity.
What I liked so much at le Bouchon des Filles was the way it effortlessly integrated old-school tradition and temporary touches. The first course was a no-choice parade of appetizers: terrine Beaujolaise with pork, port, and Beaujolais wine; marinated herring; beets; and onion compote.
There was also a bowl of this tasty salad of green Puy lentils and shallots.
Before the main was served, we received a small verrine of house-made pumpkin soup with a sesame oil whipped cream on top. This literally tasted like a savory, hot pumpkin pie and may well have been my favorite thing I’ve eaten, ever. I would like to survive exclusively off of this soup forever. And I don’t even like soup.
Of course, I did not survive exclusively off the soup. The main followed: saucisson Lyonnais with pistachios, boiled potatoes, and herbed butter. This was very, very tasty: simple, perfectly seasoned. Everything you’d hope a good sausage would be, really.
For the cheese course, I had a choice between fromage frais, Brillat-Savarin, and something called cervelle de canuts, and seeing as I can never say no to something weird, I went for the latter. (It has the word brain in it). The cheese itself did not contain brain, but rather herbs and garlic and was very, very nice.
Dessert veered in a far more contemporary direction: lime cheesecake with peanut compote. The cheesecake itself was delicious: light and fluffy with a rich, buttery crust. The peanut compote, too, was super tasty. I’m not entirely convinced by the pairing, but I finished both (albeit separately).
For me, the success of this bouchon is in its ability to seemingly effortlessly update the bouchon offering with slightly more contemporary plates and flavors, all the while staying true to the convivial spirit.
Le Bouchon des Filles – 20, rue Sergent-Blandan, près de la place Sathonay 69001 Lyon