What the bistro is to Paris, the bouchon is to Lyon, and I mean that in more ways that one. Not only is Lyon’s bouchon the sort of restaurant that serves the ultimate in comfort food with a homey ambiance and tables that are far too close to one another, but in many respects, the true bouchon – like the true bistro – is a bit of a museum to itself. Most bouchons in Lyons are frequented by tourists rather than locals, and it can be tough to find one that’s really serving authentic fare.
On my trip to Lyon, I did my research and sussed out two. Le Poêlon d’Or was actually the second one I visited, but since it was the more traditional, I wanted to highlight it first.
The restaurant had two dining rooms: this more spacious one and a cozier one on the other side. Note the guignols puppets in the painting on the wall – a Lyonnais tradition.
When it came to the wholly reasonable 27-euro prix fixe menu here, I decided to go full-on authentic and start with the salade lyonnaise: a combination of lettuce, bacon, croutons, and a poached egg. This version stood out in a few ways: usually, the lettuce is a frisée, the bitterness of which plays well with all that fat. And instead of a poached egg, this salad came with a soft-boiled one.
… not that I’m complaining. It couldn’t have been more perfectly cooked. And while I wouldn’t have minded the frisée, in every other way, this salad was perfect: the dressing was rich in vinegar and mustard, which cut through the fat of the egg and bacon.
Oh, and the bacon chunks were the size of my thumb. Yes, please.
Since I was already headed down the classic menu route, I went for the scariest dish on any Lyonnais bouchon menu: the andouillette. And you know what? I loved it.
I’ve had andouillette before, and while I love it, I usually feel about it the way I do about liver or kidney: two or three bites are delicious, and then I’ve had enough. But I cleaned my plate this time. The andouillette was perfectly seasoned and served with a rich mustard sauce. Oh, and that gratin dauphinois on the side was nothing to sniff at either. With a glass of Beaujolais-Villages, it was the perfect lunch.
Since I had already tried two bouchon classics, I decided to bat three for three and order the pink praline tart: the essential bouchon dessert.
You know what they don’t tell you about praline tart?
It’s basically just pure sugar in a pastry shell.
(I didn’t let that stop me.)
If you’re looking for a traditional bouchon menu, give Le Poêlon d’Or a try. And don’t turn your nose up at that andouillette: it’s to die for.
Le Poêlon d’Or – 29 Rue des Remparts d’Ainay, 69002 Lyon