While the word bistro once referred to a very specific sort of establishment, these days in Paris, the word has come to be very loosely defined. And while I don’t require my bistros to be run by Bougnats or have a zinc bar, there are a few things I require amidst this now loosely-defined category. In my humble opinion, a bistro should be convivial rather than refined. It should be accessible, both in price and in availability of tables. And above all, it should showcase hearty, simple food.
Bistro des Lettres doesn’t feel quite like a bistro, at least not at first. The airy dining room and pale wood details are a bit more Scandi-inspired than Auvergnat, and the elegant stemware hews fine dining, supplanting the stubby goblets I’d expect at a true-blue bistro. The scant elbow room definitely evokes at least the conviviality of a classic bistro, and while the mismatched flea market plates and silver napkin rings definitely lend a homey flair to the ambiance, it feels more cuisine campagnarde than bistro bourgeois.
This sort of fine dining-meets-bistro approach continues on the plates. I loved the way this beautiful leek-vinaigrette (8) revisited the classic, with each bite of tender, sweet leek wrapped in crisp, briny nori. A garnish of salmon roe added a lovely pop of brightness.
This salmon cromesqui (9) was smoky and rich, with bite of salmon scattered within a tender mashed potato filling.
We loved the dill sauce that came with it, not to mention the perfect pairing of soft and crunchy textures. Other appetizers ranged from classic escargots (10) to a revisited French onion soup (10) topped with a puff pastry crust rather than the classic gratinée. And I’ll be coming back for the steak tartare (11) that featured on nearly every other table, piled generously into a marrow bone.
Mains were far more traditional, which was fine by me. This whole sea bream (24) was perfectly cooked and generously paired with buttered and garlic-scented green beans. I loved the presentation, as well as the way the dish walked the line between simplicity and technical acuity to a t.
This whole coquelet (21) featured on nearly every table, and it’s not hard to see why. The presentation of an entire roast chicken is too good to pass up, and this dish didn’t just tantalize in its aesthetics. The ultra-tender chicken was paired with a thyme jus, a simple enough accompaniment to pair with the poultry without overpowering its flavor.
And while I’d noticed some reviewers complaining that the fries tasted old, ours were perfect: deeply golden brown and ultra fresh with a lovely potatoey flavor. The portions were copious enough that we didn’t have room for dessert, which was perfectly fine seeing as none of the options – profiterole, pineapple carpaccio, or French toast – was particularly alluring.
A cozy dining room, refined plates with reasonable prices… what more could you ask for? Unfortunately, one thing did niggle at me: the service, which erred between aloofness to absenteeism.
As we were leaving and my mother was appraising the beautiful wooden secrétaire at the entrance, I realized we’d never been invited to participate in the tradition the bistro has become known for: writing a letter to ourselves in the future, which the restaurant places for safekeeping behind the antique wooden doors, only to send it to you on the month of your choosing down the line. One early reviewer described the magical moment when “at the end of dinner, the host placed a wooden box of beautiful pens and old paper on the table. By candlelight, we allow our inspiration to take hold, to put onto paper what’s going through our minds.” When I realized we had never even been asked to partake in the ritual, our waitress seemed put-out, letting us known we “should have asked” before slapping the paper and pen down on the table. It was an unfortunate conclusion to an otherwise delicious meal.
Despite this issue, I do recommend this restaurant, for a number of reasons. Its location in the heart of the city cannot be overstated as a plus, and its mastery of bistro cuisine is wonderful, especially for the price. Add to that the fact that this spot is one of the rare places to serve delicious food en continu, and it makes it the perfect option for someone looking for somewhere delicious to eat near Notre Dame outside of normal dining hours.
Bistro des Lettres – 52, boulevard Saint Germain 75005