In celebration of both finally getting my French driver’s license (!) and speaking at my first-ever international conference (in French no less – [!!]), I decided to take myself* on a journey from Dijon to one of the shining beacons of French gastronomy, Bernard Loiseau.
*Disclosure: I was a guest of the property for this meal.
I enjoyed two meals at the property, one of which was at the bistro. (For my review of my mind-bending experience at the two-Michelin-starred restaurant, check back in next week!)
Despite its name, the bistro didn’t feel all that bistro-y walking in. It felt like a restaurant, albeit one that had quite a bit less pomp and circumstance than the more famous gastronomic dining room in the building across the way. I was immediately offered an apéritif by my genial server, who suggested the house specialty of a kir spiked with gingerbread syrup.
It was served with two flaky, cheesy gougères that took on a wholly different form than the one I’m used to. Usually in a puff shape (be it big or small), these choux pastry puffs are a Burgundian specialty made with Comté cheese. These ones appeared to have been baked in a long strip and cut into segments. No matter their shape, I am forever onboard with a gougère.
Appetizer-wise, I stayed local in ordering the oeuf en meurette… and I’m oh-so glad I did. This egg dish is traditionally cooked in leftover gravy from beef bourguignon, with a poached egg (or two, in this case) nestled into the rich red wine sauce made smoky with bacon and earthy thanks to the mushrooms.
Boasting the ideal blend of sweet and savory, smoky and umami, this dish was oh-so moreish. A real showstopper.
I stuck with the smoky trend (and my penchant for transitioning from a mostly-vegetarian to a stalwart carnivore the second I’m in a restaurant) by ordering one of my favorite dishes on earth: steak tartare. I love tartare in any form, be it hand-cut or ground, traditional or contemporary. I have been noticing more and more unique plays on the stalwart in recent years, and this one was no exception.
The tartare was made with smoked Charolais beef that was hand-cut and combined with Parmesan, sweet-and-sour shallots, and pine nuts for a final dish that boasted a present but even-handed combination of richness and acidity. Paired with garlic-rubbed toast, it evoked the bistronomy vibes of this bistro to a t, and the Irancy that the waiter suggested to pair with it had lovely earthy, fennelly vibes that were a great match.
A special nod to the bread, by the way, which made a wonderful accompaniment and which is baked to the restaurant’s specifications by a local artisan.
The Parmesan in the tartare was quite present, but don’t think for one moment I was going to skip the cheese course, made up of Comté, shallot-coated goat cheese, and local favorite Epoisses.
Last but not least… the dessert cart. (There is nothing I love more than a dessert cart, except a cheese cart. More on that next week.) Right to left, a mirabelle-buckwheat situation I steered clear of, a chocolate éclair, a fig-olive oil tart, a coconut and pineapple finger, and a Paris-Saulieu, a local play on the hazelnut confection that is a Paris-Brest.
After quite a bit of hemming and hawing (which my server was particularly kind about), I opted for the latter, as Paris-Brest is usually my favorite of the classic French desserts.
All things considered, it was unfortunately the most underwhelming part of my dinner: While the cream was sumptuous, the pastry itself was a bit dry. (I had had the opportunity to try the coconut finger earlier, and it was far tastier.)
The sole waiter was present but unobtrusive in that phenomenally French way. Especially when dining alone, I am always grateful for service like this. I don’t want anyone standing over me, waiting for me to finish my last bite. I love the opportunity to savor my meal, to linger over the menu, to gaze at the dessert cart. The blend of professionalism and discretion, combined with the deft skill in the kitchen, was an excellent precursor for what would follow the next evening.
Loiseau des Sens, Saulieu