I have always wanted to visit Argentina, but both times I planned to, my plan fell apart. Perhaps one day. In the meantime, I’ll at least have a taste at Biondi, a Right Bank restaurant named for a famed Argentinian comedian and home to the food and wine of his native land.
Biondi is a bit hard on the wallet in the evenings, but the lunch menu is totally reasonable and truly tasty.
On a recent visit, the house-made terrine had major wow factor.
Meanwhile, this version of my go-to vitello tonnato deviated a bit from the norm, with well-done yet still tender veal and small garnishes of sprouts and chunks of anchovy. It was a bit more rustic than other versions I’ve eaten in Paris recently, and I was far from disappointed.
The milanaise cutlet came with a hearty sprinkling of fleur de sel, a lemon wedge, and a side of mustard-infused sauce. That such a simple preparation could be so perfected – at once crisp, tender, and juicy – is a testament to the skills in this kitchen.
I’m not usually a dessert fan, but this chocolate semifreddo with fresh raspberries and meringue pieces was actually the perfect ending. It was quite small – to my mind, the perfect size post-lunch to allow you to head back to work – and it wasn’t overly sweet.
The staff even whipped up this vegan dessert for a friend of mine avoiding dairy, with sorbet topping a fruit salad featuring raspberries, pineapple, and even a bit of tomato.
This restaurant is within spitting distance of some of my favorites, including Clown Bar and Martin. It offers a slightly heartier plate than either, which is certainly something to consider if you’re dining with friends who aren’t a huge fan of the small plates concept. It also deviates a bit from the more plant-heavy plates that are gaining traction in Paris, but the change is not at all unwelcome.
The next time I visit, I’m sincerely hoping to get a taste of the octopus and steak this spot is so famous for!
Biondi – 118, rue Amelot, 75011