I’ve got a bone to pick.
A major part of my job is reporting on sustainability in America, and I must say, I’ve been seeing a trend I like quite a lot. Americans, by and large, are becoming more aware of what they eat, opting to eat meatless one (or more!) days a week and to choose more sustainable, ethical sources of meat when they do choose to partake.
But a major issue plaguing the food system, particularly in the developed world, is waste, and there’s a lot of waste happening in the U.S., where people, for the most part, eschew offal.
I’ll be the first to admit that I didn’t grow up eating brain. I didn’t eat tripe, or kidney, or liver. And while I love sweetbreads and blood sausage now, they were things I learned to love here: in France.
I’ve interviewed several producers of meat in the U.S. who let me know that they’d be happy to sell what are known as “variety meats” to their customers, but knowing that demand is low, they usually market them to dog owners. And while it’s nice that these bits and pieces are being eaten, it’s too bad that man’s best friend is getting one of the best morsels.
Not having been raised eating liver, I had to turn to my father-in-law for tips on how to prepare this calf’s liver, which I got from my co-op. Sautéed in butter with just a bit of honey, it’s silky and sweet – and it’s rich enough that just a few ounces is more than enough.
Liver and Onions with Roasted Potatoes and Squash Purée (serves 2)
200 grams potatoes, cubed
200 grams potimarron or butternut squash, cubed
2 tablespoons duck fat, divided
1 tablespoon butter
1 pinch nutmeg
1 tablespoon butter
1 onion, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon butter
4 ounces calf’s liver
1 teaspoon honey
salt and pepper
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. In separate bowls, toss the potatoes and squash with the duck fat. Season each with salt and place in separate roasting dishes. Roast for about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, begin caramelizing the onions. Heat the butter over medium heat and add the onions, seasoning with a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until very deeply caramelized. Add the honey and balsamic vinegar and remove from the pan.
Remove the squash from the dish, and purée with an immersion blender. Emulsify the butter and nutmeg into the purée and check for seasoning. Set aside.
Heat the butter for the liver in the same pan in which the onions were cooked. Season the liver with salt on both sides, and cook for about 4 minutes per side. Add the honey to the pan and baste the liver with it. Set aside to rest 2 minutes before slicing and serving.