Among the ever-growing number of natural wine-loving, market-driven restaurants in Paris, I still have one place to beat, one place against which I measure up any other. Martin offers everything I want in a restaurant: tons of choice, tons of outdoor seating space, and prices that make it easy to order pretty much anything you want off the menu without worrying about how you’re going to pay your EDF bill. The staff is lovely, the ambiance feels more like a block party than a restaurant, and there is a resident dog called Saucisse.
So it’s perhaps no surprise that Robert, a newer restaurant opened by the team behind Martin, has long been on my list of places to try.
Robert is not trying to be Martin, nor does it have the same vibe: a light, airy dining room evokes a classier dining experience than the fun-filled Martin ambiance, and small plates are sidelined in favor of the more traditional appetizer-main-dessert formula.
It’s also pricier than Martin, but the lunchtime prix fixe makes it totally reasonable, especially considering the quality of the dishes. On a recent visit, the prix fixe was made up of two apps, two mains, a cheese, and a dessert; a friend and I sampled nearly all of them.
She opted for the fig salad with hazelnuts and Parmesan, whereas I went for one of the handful of dishes that I’ll order anywhere I see it: vitello tonnato. This version paired rosy, just-cooked veal with a tonnato sauce that was creamy without ever being gloppy. Brighter, brinier flavors like capers and herbs made this one of my favorite iterations I’ve ever had of this dish.
As far as mains, we had a choice between roast chicken with aubergines and pine nuts or lieu jaune. I opted for the latter (depicted up top) which was served with chanterelles and bitter lettuce. And I thanked my lucky stars that Little Sister convinced me two years ago that ordering fish in restaurants is pretty much always a good idea.
There was a choice between cheese and this strawberry concoction to finish; we opted to split the dessert, and for once, I’m so glad I did. Fresh strawberries and a strawberry ice cream were served with delicious cookie crumbs for the ideal last course that was just sweet enough without being cloying.
Natural wines prevail on the wine list – I opted for a lovely skin-contact orange one, but there’s tons of choice, no matter what you’re looking for.
While Robert has not dethroned its sibling as my all-time Paris fave, it’s definitely an address worth keeping in your back pocket, particularly if you’re looking for a slightly more special-occasion ambiance.
Robert -Â 32 Rue de la Fontaine au Roi, 75011Â