When Gregory Marchand first opened Frenchie, he revolutionized the little rue du Nil which – living in the shadow of nearby rue Montorgueil – had become one of those tiny Parisian streets you could easily walk past for years without even noticing. (I should know – I used to live on one.)
But now, the rue du Nil is home to a panoply of commerces de bouche (literally: mouth stores), including the Terroirs d’Avenir local produce shop, a fromagerie, a butcher shop, a fishmonger, and the three Frenchie restaurants: Frenchie, Frenchie To Go, and Frenchie Bar à Vins.
Frenchie is the big mamma of the group: the restaurant has received accolades in the New York Times, Food and Wine, and CN Traveler for Marchand’s ability to seemingly effortlessly blend French technique and training with experience abroad: his desire for sweetness and acidity in each dish makes him a man after my own heart (and palate), and I’m not alone: since Frenchie first opened in 2009, its popularity has not wavered.
The “to go” shop up the street offers a different brand of wonderful, with Anglo-inspired sandwiches like the reuben, pulled pork, lobster roll, and fish and chips, as well as baked goods like truly phenomenal bacon-maple scones.
But of the three, Frenchie Bar à Vins is the one that has claimed my heart.
Salsify two ways
Frenchie Bar à Vins is the wine bar outpost of the Frenchie empire, with a long list of wines by the glass and by the bottle to enjoy. But it is also firmly ensconced in the small plates trend that shows no sign of slowing, with a market-driven menu that systematically surpasses my hopes as far as innovative yet simple dishes are concerned.
Rabbit terrine with pickled radishes
Generally speaking, the menu features about ten dishes, evenly divided amongst the categories of charcuterie, vegetable, meat, and fish. The dishes are small but made for sharing – this, I must admit, is my favorite way to eat, as you can sample four or five dishes without leaving the restaurant feeling like you need to be horizontal for a while.
Burrata, kumquat, Brussels sprouts
Everything is made in-house, and the huge, plate-glass window into the kitchen allows you to see what other diners are ordering and helps you make your choice. I tend to order one dish at a time for this very reason.
The cheese course features a selection from Neal’s Dairy, oddly enough, but this wink at Marchand’s former home of the UK is welcome, even in a country known for its cheese.
Lemon dessert
Of course, my favorite thing about Frenchie Bar à Vins is that you don’t need a reservation – in fact, the bar doesn’t take them. As compared to the restaurant across the street, where reservations are notoriously difficult to come by, this is a major plus.
You do, however need to show up right around opening (6:30 – kinda early for France, but you’re welcome to linger over your dishes, so each time I manage to stay through normal dinnertime and through to 10 or 11) or risk spending time waiting at the rather cramped bar.
Frenchie Bar à Vins is a solid address that has yet to disappoint me.
Frenchie Bar à Vins – 6, rue du Nil, 75002