I’ve gotten to a point where I have a pretty tough time going out for Italian food.
Nothing in Paris lives up either to what my mom makes, what I can get in some of my favorite NYC Italian restaurants, or what I can make at home. I finally made it to the much-lauded Ober Mamma last year, and I was profoundly disappointed.
But Racines has captured my heart – probably because its dishes, while Italian in inspiration, are mostly focused on great ingredients and simplicity.
This little restaurant (and I do mean little) is located in the Passage des Panoramas, one of dozens of 19th century covered passages that you’ll find on the Right Bank of Paris. It was recently taken over by Sardinian chef Simone Tondo (formerly of the exquisite Roseval).
A former wine shop, Racines is a wine-driven small plates restaurant veering into wine bar territory, with a host of both to choose from.
On one recent visit, this Puglia burrata was served with Trentino speck and a smattering of hazelnuts. While burrata has been done to death in Paris this year (it’s everywhere), I loved this iteration of it, and it was just the right size for sharing.
It’s always tough for me to pass up vitello tonnato. While usually presented flat on the plate, I actually quite liked the more voluminous presentation from Racines (not to mention: the flavors were on. point.)
It’s also quite rare that I turn down boudin noir: the French blood sausage is super rich and decadent. This one is now possibly my favorite boudin noir in Paris (possibly second only Le Severo). It’s meaty and the sear on the outside is perfect, adding texture to what can sometimes be too soft a dish. I also loved the addition of bitter radicchio, which is the ideal foil for something so rich.
My little sister convinced me relatively recently that ordering fish in restaurants is a good idea, and I must say, I have yet to be disappointed. I always thought that fish was too simple to make at home to merit the often expensive price tag when dining out, but the right restaurants really take it to the next level. This mackerel wasn’t just perfectly cooked, but it was served with a delicious potato purée made with hazelnut oil.
There’s always a pasta dish on the menu as well. Pasta is yet another thing I’ll rarely order out, just because I do a pretty good job of it at home, but I’ve got to say, the gnocchi is unreal.
I also loved this simple dish of lentils and sausage: flavorful, rich, and unctuous, with an herbed broth that I wanted to dip everything in.
Wine-wise, there are tons of bottles (and glasses) to choose from, many of which hail from Italy (a unique but not unwelcome choice in wine-proud Paris).
Because I’m less familiar with Italian wine, I always let myself be guided by the lovely sommelier, and I have yet to be disappointed.
(As a random aside, don’t miss a visit to the bathroom here. Just outside, you’ll glimpse this sumptuous table and its gorgeous chandelier.)
Because of the small size (and popularity) of this spot, you’ll definitely need to make a reservation, but I promise: in this case, the wait is worth it.
Racines – 8, passage des Panoramas, 75002